Despite the start of the Womenswear Ready-to-Wear FW17 season, the beautiful memories and breath-taking pieces from couture week still linger on. Such as, the deconstructed contemporary art of Maison Margiela. The exotic celebrations as presented by Elie Saab. The fairy-tale like garden introduced by the New Dior. The Chanel wardrobe of meticulously made clothes. As well as the young and modern spirit of Dolce & Gabbana shimmering inside designers Alta Sartoria Teatro alla Scala…… SS17 couture fashion week has so much to talk about.
What separates couture fashion shows from RTW shows, without doubt, is the sartorial skills and artisanal discretion. Behind every piece is the couturier’s hundreds of hours’ handworks. But what gives this season extra sparkle is the crashing and disruptive going-ons in our outer world. Here in the couture shows, only lied the oasis of the pure, elegant and imaginative beautifully made clothes. Innovative and modern pitch flowed through every house.
Dolce & Gabbana
The well polished Dolce & Gabbana men’s suits poised between operatic drama and modern fancy. When models walked down the runway, the perfect proportions and well-cut streamline showed the made-in-Italy prestigious craftsmanship. Slouching robes, hand-painted jeans, and daring patterns. And there is something more than opulence: “swagg” elements exercised vibrantly, accenting the collection.
Chanel imbedded it’s couture house spirit and innovation into the details. Involving a special technique, the metallic and flat belts proved great difficulty, although they looked simple and natural. The silhouette of the classic Coco tweed suit referred to Alberto Giacometti’s ‘Spoon Woman’, with the elongated leg look.
The collection appears to be made for women with traditional French elegance. Well dressed, with a pair of gloves and a small round hat. However, this romantic philosophy is not the end. Shocks of colour like green, lilac, livid purple awoke your senses from the gleams reflected by the mirrors on both the set and garments. The audience was served a beautiful ritual of a show, returning to impeccable formality wear in a contemporary method.
With the installation of a labyrinth in a green garden, the show was meant to be a beautiful dream. The debut couture show of Maria Grazia Chiuri for Dior played with lightness. Extending the merriments of her first ready-to-wear collection in Dior, the topic of “lingering beauty” was again chosen.
The signature Dior Bar jacket was re-figured in pleats to bait you with sophisticated prettiness. Every head piece was different. With Stephen Jones’s artistic design, toying with feathers and flowers, the clothes recalled the tales we have heard as a children.
The colors of the clothes matched with the Dior’s long-standing tone which defined ‘chic’ with no precise colors. Quintessentially, black and white were omnipresent. Maria also brought in the signature romantic hues when she was in the Valentino house. Lost in the Dior garden, fairies in princess-like gowns swayed their way across the lawns. The essence of younger and more feminine Dior is sure to be captured.
“Deep in every heart slumbers a dream.”
– Christian Dior
Amazing couture shows offered consolation to the fashion aficionados disappointed by sloppy commercial collections, distracting us from the events of the outside world. There, at couture fashion week, leaves a short dream woven by artisans. Where everyone was fed by exquisite artwork pieces with flying imagination.
Suzy Menkes (2017) About [Online] Available at http://en.vogue.fr/suzy-menkes/suzy-menkes-column/diaporama/suzy-menkes-haute-couture-dolce-and-gabbana-show-column/40468