Gender fluidity has been increasingly at the forefront of fashion conscious in recent years. As the idea of gender fluid clothing is becoming increasingly popular, we look to the designers who have been bending the gender-defining rules on the catwalks over the past few seasons.
Vivienne Westwood | Ready-to-wear | Autumn/ Winter 2015
Well known political activist, Dame Vivienne Westwood has always played around with elements of gender fluidity in her collections. Back in 2015 she took it a step further and released a unisex collection, which consisted of items designed to suit both the male and female form. Swapping gender stereotypes, the eclectic collection showcases loose tailoring and trousers worn by female models, whilst dresses with ruffles and bows were adorned by the males.
Succumbing to the genderless look is a concept that Vivienne Westwood has embraced since her youth;
“When I was a teenager I actually thought I was turning into a boy, and I didn’t really care. It didn’t bother me at all.”
Prada | Spring/Summer 2015
Giving a subtle nod to the look, Muiccia Prada is another ambassador of gender neutrality. “Anytime I do a men’s show, I’m thinking this would be fantastic for women—or at least for me. And more and more, it feels instinctively right to translate the same idea for both genders.” Her spring/summer 2015 collection explored this look from a minimalist perspective, structured tailoring and a dark colour palette expressed gender neutralness with uniform chic.
J.W. Anderson | Spring/Summer 2015
Loewe front-man Jonathan Anderson has been experimenting with genderless wear over the past few seasons, particularly for his eponymous brand J.W. Anderson. His tailoring is loose and the proportions are discorded, creating a very relaxed masculinity. “Now it’s more about garments for garments’ sake. T-shirts, jeans, duffel coats, biker jackets – it all means the same thing, no matter if it’s a man or woman wearing it. They are a neutral zone,” says the designer on blurring the lines between masculinity and femininity.
Gucci | Milan Fashion Week | Autumn/Winter 2016
Gucci’s creative director, Alessandro Michele, is causing a seismic shift in men’s jewellery this season, his menswear catwalk during Milan Fashion Week saw the model’s adorned with sparkly, playful jewels, with rings being at the forefront of the trend. According to Gucci, the more rings the better, whatever your gender.
“I have eight Gucci rings that can be worn as anything, from two at a time to all eight, but the plan is to get another eight and wear all 16, two on each finger. Liberace style. I never do anything by halves,” says Luke Day, editor of GQ style.
Liaung-Chung Yen’s textured 18k gold rings adhere to the extravagant adornment expressed in Gucci’s catwalks for this season. The thick gold bands contrast with the exquisite jewels meeting at the centre piece, embodying both masculinity and femininity equally in each piece.
Alexander McQueen | London Fashion Week | Autumn/ Winter 2016
Alexander McQueen took the idea of men wearing jewellery to an even greater extreme this season, their London Fashion Week show featured a series of models sporting eccentric facial piercings, paying homage to elements of the punk era. The safety pins pierced the hollowed cheek-bones of Sarah Burton’s male models and linked up to more effeminate drop-down earrings adorning the lobes. This avant-garde manner of accessorising gives a contemporary twist to this Victorian inspired collection.
Jewellery designer Rachel Yeung hosts a narrative of simple and delicate pieces with an industrial nuance. The distorted pins express gender neutrality, perfect to layer-up with other accessories to go all-out rebel or add elements of quirkiness to a simple outfit.
Written by Anneka Shally
Edited by Christina Wright